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Showing posts from July, 2025

Where the Buffalo Roam and Buffalo Bill Rests An Afternoon Trip into the Wild, the Weird, and the West

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  Wild Right Here: A Bison, Some Elk, and the Best Free Safari You’ve Never Heard Of You wouldn’t believe what’s tucked right into the middle of Denver. I didn’t. Just a few miles from my hotel—close enough to hit with a well-thrown coffee cup—is the Rocky Mountain Arsenal National Wildlife Refuge. I knew about it in a vague way, I drove  past the sign a few times on my way to the hotel, but I wasn’t prepared for the scale. You pull in and suddenly it’s not a city anymore. It’s wide, it’s still, and it feels far . At points, you forget there are whole neighborhoods just outside the fence. They’ve got 16,000 acres and an 11-mile wildlife drive that loops through the park like your own personal safari. You stay in your car and roll along, eyes wide, windows down, engine idling like a nervous heartbeat. It’s completely free to enter, and they’ve even got an audio guide you can download that tracks your progress and gives you facts mile-by-mile. Though full disclosure—I kept d...

Four Stops in the City: A Postcard, a Palace, and a Station at Night

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Union Station After Dark So there I was, ending up at Denver’s Union Station after dark—Mostly unplanned, which, let’s be honest, is how the best stuff usually happens. The old Beaux-Arts building was lit up in soft red and green, like it was either getting ready for the holidays or just showing off for the night. That iconic “Travel by Train” sign still crowns the roof like a neon crown—kind of like the city’s way of saying, Welcome, you’re here. Union Station’s been Denver’s front door since 1881, surviving a fire in 1894 and a bunch of makeovers since, but it’s never lost its soul. Inside, it’s quiet. The great hall feels like a cathedral for people going places, with massive chandeliers and tall arched windows letting in whatever night light there is. Shops and cafés are closed up, but the marble floors still shine, and the wooden benches hold a few scattered souls charging phones or just soaking it in. Even empty, the place hums with history. You almost expect to hear a conducto...

Geological Contraband and Other Truths

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The Rock Hustle Somewhere off the exit to Red Rocks On the way to Red Rocks, I saw a weather-beaten sign that caught my eye—something about a site of geological interest. The lettering was faded, the kind of marker you’d miss if you blinked or weren’t the type to care what kind of rocks the earth spit up. But I do care. Or at least, I do now—because all five of my kids are rock hounds, and somewhere along the way, they suckered me into this life. I pulled into the first parking lot off the exit, just to figure out what the sign was talking about. That’s when I realized: I was looking at it. The Dakota Hogback. A tilted, ragged ridge of stone—an ancient thrust of sedimentary layers that looks like the earth folded itself like a piece of paper and just left it that way. When they cut the highway through it, the layers stood exposed like the pages of some prehistoric ledger, each one holding a record of millions of years. You could see the eras stacked like cordwood. It was clear the plac...

Still Rolling Around: Denver Traffic and the Week Gen X Took It on the Chin

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  Welcome to Still Rolling Around — the new home for all the things that never quite fit anywhere else but refuse to be forgotten. Like the back cupholder in your car, this series is where the dog treats, busted pens, loose change, and crumpled reminders of real life collect. Not important enough to organize, but way too real to toss. These stories don’t belong in a travelogue or a shop tale. They’re the random moments, small observations, and everyday chaos that make everything else make sense. They may not follow a theme, but they hold the glue — the in-between parts of a life lived wide open. So here they are, finally, where they belong. Still rolling around. Denver Traffic and the Week Gen X Took It on the Chin There are bad traffic cities, and then there’s Denver . You’d think with all this wide-open space, the roads would make sense. But no—Denver makes you exit the highway, crawl down some random surface street, sit through three red lights behind a Subaru with a kayak and...

Byproducts of a Bygone Era (Chandeliers, Mountains, and the Echoes of Places That Refuse to Die)

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  A road trip meditation on grand hotels, personal history, and one unforgettable place in the Rockies. I come from the Borscht Belt. Not just geographically. Not just culturally. I mean origin story stuff. I mean: I wouldn’t even be here if it weren’t for that strange, beautiful, fading world of Jewish resorts that once dotted the Catskills. My grandfather met my grandmother because of it. Her family ran a hotel —nothing big, but big enough to need help. They had my father there, in between guests and linen changes and dinners served family-style. When the hotel burned down—as so many of them eventually did. My uncle didn't didn’t give up. He started a campground. A postcard from the post war family hotel Meanwhile, on the other side of the State, my mother’s family was living their own story. They were campers. One summer, they rolled up to that very same campground. My mom met my dad somewhere between a bonfire and the bathhouse. That’s how it happens. That’s how I h...